2005 · On Foot Across India

The Walking Pilgrimage

Raw journal entries from a year spent walking India on a dollar a day.

Six months into their marriage, Nipun and Guri left home to journey across India on foot. Living on a dollar a day, eating wherever food was offered, sleeping wherever a flat surface was found, it was an unscripted pilgrimage to greet life in the farthest corners of their own consciousness. As they walked, they learned much about India, a lot about humanity, and most about the stranger we call “I.”

Start Here

A few entries to begin with, from each stretch of the journey.

  1. A Dip Into SikhismBefore the Walk, Feb 05
  2. Sat-Sri-AkalBefore the Walk, Feb 06
  3. Sweet Sugar Cane JuiceThe Pilot Project, Mar 15
  4. Give Me All Your Money!The Pilot Project, Mar 17
  5. Known to the Unknown, Day 1The Walk, Mar 31
  6. Visnu in VasnaThe Walk, Apr 03
  7. An Inevitable Coin TossAt the Monastery, Jul 03
  8. Two Thoreaus of Sakwa CountyAt the Monastery, Jul 05
  9. Baroda's Smiley StreetAfter the Pilgrimage, Sep 26
  10. So, What Did You Learn?After the Pilgrimage, Sep 30
1.

Before the Walk

Jan – Mar 2005 · 40 entries

Leaving home on January 31st — a halt in Singapore, days in Punjab, Jaipur and Mumbai, then on to Ahmedabad. Early experiments in service.

  1. Jan 29Fourth Floor Rain-bow
  2. Jan 31Walls Must Come Down
  3. Feb 01Kachi Kapshida
  4. Feb 01Doors Keep Opening
  5. Feb 02President of Singapore
  6. Feb 02Going With The Flow
  7. Feb 02Just Do It
  8. Feb 04Prove Your Identity
  9. Feb 04Service to Humanity
  10. Feb 05A Dip Into Sikhism
  11. Feb 06Sat-Sri-Akal
  12. Feb 07Strangers of Jaipur
  13. Feb 08Driving A Saint
  14. Feb 09God's Mathematics
  15. Feb 10Fragrance of Love
  16. Feb 11One Rupee In Change
  17. Feb 13Gap Between Us and Vivekananda
  18. Feb 14Two Ladies For Two Minutes
  19. Feb 15What are your plans in India?
  20. Feb 17Praying Lips, Helping Hands
  21. Feb 19Vegetable Seller At Gandhi Ashram
  22. Feb 20Work is Contractual; Effort is Personal
  23. Feb 21Dancing Like No One Is Watching
  24. Feb 22From Sweeper To Saint
  25. Feb 23Washing Clothes Samadhi
  26. Feb 24Pilgrimage To Full Moon
  27. Feb 25Heartless Intellectuals
  28. Feb 26Lion and the Goat
  29. Mar 01Be Seated!
  30. Mar 02Global Pay-It-Forward?
  31. Mar 03Nut Found. Bolt Missing.
  32. Mar 04Grapes From The Heart
  33. Mar 05A Tireless Stream
  34. Mar 07Ten Minutes at Ten PM
  35. Mar 08Just Another Day in Paradise
  36. Mar 09Random Act of Prayer
  37. Mar 10When Dirty, Shower.
  38. Mar 11Clockwise India
  39. Mar 12Ghostbusters!
  40. Mar 13Just One Sentence

✦ marks a highlight.

2.

The Pilot Project

March 2005 · 15 entries

About twenty-five of us on a fifteen-day pilot walk to Kabirwad, beginning March 12th.

  1. Mar 13Searching For the Good
  2. Mar 14Onwards to Kabirwad
  3. Mar 15Sweet Sugar Cane Juice
  4. Mar 16Conversations With God
  5. Mar 16Garland of Awareness
  6. Mar 17Give Me All Your Money!
  7. Mar 19Temple Without an Idol
  8. Mar 19Begging A Beggar
  9. Mar 23The Village Life
  10. Mar 24Paraspar Devo Bhava
  11. Mar 25Seven Barefoot Saints
  12. Mar 2612 Hour Chant
  13. Mar 29Blindfolded Love
  14. Mar 30Another Bold Experiment
  15. Mar 30Let's Get on With the Show
3.

The Walk

Mar 31 – Jun 2005 · 55 entries

Setting out from the Gandhi Ashram in Ahmedabad — south to Chicodara, around Baroda, on to Vedchi, then toward Mumbai. About a thousand kilometers on foot.

  1. Mar 31Known to the Unknown, Day 1
  2. Apr 01Two Potters of Bareja
  3. Apr 01Profile: Govardhan 'Ironman' Patel
  4. Apr 03Visnu in Vasna
  5. Apr 04Profile: Prahlad Dada
  6. Apr 05A Melodic Blessing
  7. Apr 06Quenching Our Thirst
  8. Apr 06Churn and Burn
  9. Apr 07Haircut on the House
  10. Apr 09The Path Under My Feet
  11. Apr 18Running into Nadiad's Pope
  12. Apr 18500 Rupees From a Monk!
  13. Apr 18A Fellow Pilgrim With a Bidi
  14. Apr 18Temple on the Highway
  15. Apr 19In Search of the Good ...
  16. Apr 20Booking Window
  17. Apr 2024 Hours in Gotri
  18. Apr 21Courage Under Fire
  19. Apr 22April Clouds
  20. Apr 25Soul Food
  21. Apr 26Between Guri and God
  22. Apr 29Sunday Special
  23. Apr 29First Class Karma
  24. Apr 30A Nine-Year-Old's Gita
  25. May 01A Hundred Rupee Note
  26. May 05Smallest Big Story of Goraj
  27. May 06Bells of an Ice-cream Cart
  28. May 11Two New Profiles
  29. May 11Birds Leave No Traces
  30. May 12Q&A with Rajeshree Muni
  31. May 12Arriving as Pilgrims, Not Guests
  32. May 13Blogging Blessings
  33. May 16Lifting Loads, Pushing Cars
  34. May 19700 Kilometers of Lessons
  35. May 20H-two-O, H-two-O
  36. May 20Putting It All On the Line
  37. May 21My Crazy Jewish Brother
  38. May 22No, Not My Water Bottle!
  39. May 22Stares and Smiles
  40. May 242005: State of Gandhi's Khadi
  41. Jun 02Full Moon Fast
  42. Jun 02Guava Uncle of Kantidara
  43. Jun 04Carrying Your Own Thorns
  44. Jun 04Fortune at the Bottom of the Pyramid?
  45. Jun 05My First Bow
  46. Jun 07No Doors, No Locks
  47. Jun 09Four Motorcyles on Wilson Hill
  48. Jun 11Thousand Kilometers, One Conclusion
  49. Jun 22Q&A With Kanti Shah
  50. Jun 22Monsoon Meditation
  51. Jun 23Ripening of a Mango
  52. Jun 25India's Favorite Spiritual Excuse
  53. Jun 27An 80 Year Old Hand
  54. Jun 28Finding Nipun
  55. Jun 30My Nominee For Nobel Peace Prize
4.

At the Monastery

Jul – Sep 2005 · 30 entries

Three months at a meditation retreat in Igatpuri.

  1. Jul 01Crossing Milestones
  2. Jul 03An Inevitable Coin Toss
  3. Jul 05Two Thoreaus of Sakwa County
  4. Jul 16More Stories Coming Soon
  5. Jul 21Latest Communication Technology
  6. Jul 22Belated Wedding Offering
  7. Jul 23Attention, Please
  8. Jul 24'Form' Checking Adventures
  9. Jul 25Running Into Myself
  10. Jul 26Thinking of 'Guri'
  11. Jul 28Rescued By a Coin Toss
  12. Jul 28The 4AM Lemonade
  13. Jul 29Best Compliment Ever?
  14. Jul 30Rat Race II: The Karma Edition
  15. Aug 02Unstuffing An Envelope
  16. Nov 07 '04Temple of Accumulated Error
  17. Aug 02Most Inspiring Blog Entries?
  18. Aug 14An Invisible Pilgrim
  19. Aug 16Inspiring Billboards
  20. Aug 16Sweet Samadhi
  21. Aug 16iJourney, We All Journey
  22. Aug 16My Design Principles
  23. Aug 23Pain is All in the Mind?
  24. Aug 25The Blind and The Kind
  25. Aug 29A Whisper At My Doorstep
  26. Sep 03Day 0, To Be Like a Coconut
  27. Sep 07Day 1: Speech and Silence
  28. Sep 09Day 2: Dharma Works
  29. Sep 12Day 4: From Power To Force
  30. Sep 20Dirty Pond, Beautiful Lotus
5.

After the Pilgrimage

Sep – Dec 2005 · 23 entries

The months that followed, all the way back to the Bay Area.

  1. Sep 26Baroda's Smiley Street
  2. Sep 28India Today: Sex, Drugs, and Sports?
  3. Sep 30So, What Did You Learn?
  4. Oct 0650 Items That Should Change the World
  5. Oct 07Simple Truths
  6. Oct 08Servant Leadership
  7. Oct 10Shop Till You Drop
  8. Oct 18400 Rupee Tip At the Seva Cafe
  9. Oct 21Unspoken Contract With a Rickshaw Driver
  10. Oct 27A Tribute to a Teacher
  11. Nov 03A Brilliant Journey
  12. Nov 08Is She a Pilgrim?
  13. Nov 08In Search of Sinh-Baba
  14. Nov 08Nadiad Spices, The Mom-and-Pop Way
  15. Nov 30Three Steps, One Bow in Gujarat
  16. Dec 01Congratulations, Viral and Pavi!
  17. Dec 06Lessons From Indian Traffic
  18. Dec 06Your Son Has No Fear
  19. Dec 08One Rupee Ethics
  20. Dec 08An Encounter with Sri Lanka's Gandhi
  21. Dec 13Secret Service: A Compassion Gang
  22. Dec 20A Full Moon View
  23. Dec 20Back to the Bayarea

About the Walk

As written in 2005, while still on the road.

Nipun and Guri

Imagine being fully alive, awake and engaged. Imagine utilizing body, mind and spirit in a rapturous three-part harmony that sets feet tapping, hearts beating and souls soaring. Walking together from the self to the selfless, this is our pilgrimage to the heart of the infinite.

Six months into our marriage, we — Nipun and Guri — left home to journey India by foot. Living on a dollar a day, eating wherever food is offered, sleeping wherever a flat surface is found, ours was an unscripted spiritual pilgrimage to greet life in the farthest corners of our own consciousness. As we walked, we learned much about India, a lot about humanity, and most about the stranger we call “I.”

We “left home” on January 31st; after a halt in Singapore, we spent three days in Punjab, a day in Jaipur, a couple more in Bombay, and finally went to Ahmedabad via a short flight to Hyderabad. About 25 of us did a 15-day pilot project to Kabirwad on March 12th.

On March 31st, Guri and I started walking from the Gandhi Ashram in Ahmedabad. We went south towards Chicodara, circled around Baroda, headed to Vedchi, before marching in the Mumbai direction. After about 1,000 kilometers of walking, we stayed at a meditation retreat for three months in Igatpuri.

Some frequently asked questions …

What are you doing?

Guri and I are walking "South" from the Gandhi Ashram, in search of the "good". We are profiling inspiring people, in the hopes that more goodness spreads in the world. And we are walking to increase our trust in the inter-connectedness of life; to that end, we sold our belongings and left with a one-way ticket to India on January 31st. After a few pilot experiments, we left the Gandhi Ashram on March 31st without knowing anyone, without having any resources, or without charting a path to walk.

Why are you walking? It takes so long.

That's exactly our point -- it is slow. Walking teaches you patience, walking teaches you humility, walking helps you connect with the common man. [more on why we walk]

What inspired you to do this?

In April 1999, Guri and I were part of a four-person experiment in service. It later came to be known as ServiceSpace, which leverages the web to inspire service amongst thousands of hearts around the world. While that small act of service became big, our fundamental belief remained: one can only do small acts with big love. To continue to deepen our awareness, we left ServiceSpace, in its peak, to hit unknown terrains, both physical and mental. The challenge facing us is this: can we preserve that heart of service and continue to do small, immeasurable acts of goodness?

What has been your experience thus far?

When we started the walk, we wondered how many days long we'd survive. Somehow, we're still going. :) We have slept on the streets, had food from people you might call "beggars", washed our own clothes (by hand) everyday, stayed in places without phone or electricity, walked into places where we knew absolutely nobody, lived on less than 25 rupees (50 cents) a day ... and we have seen "good" in the most unassuming of places, in the farthest "uncivilized" tribals. None of which I previously thought was even possible. Fortunately, our (irrational? :)) faith in the universe has yielded encounters with tons of mind-bending, inspiring people ... who have taught us incredible lessons about India, service/development, and ourselves along the way.

How do you survive?

We have a small backpack, in which we carry our basic necessities -- two shawls, couple pairs of clothes and toiletries. Generally, someone or another hosts us; if not, we find a temple ground or a tree shade or an empty bench. We get some basic food for lunch and eat fruits for dinner. Sometimes it's a good life, sometimes not; for us, the point is to be equanimous through it all.

Do you keep money on you?

Some. On the first day of our walk, we decided to live on dollar on a day since more than third of the world lives on that amount. That gets you some fruits in most places. Regardless of our budget, we don't have any cold drinks, ice-creams, sweets and things we would typically love to indulge in. :) We also don't carry forward any balances or take loans from future budgets; everyday is its own karma.

How do you update your blog?

We carry a portable computer, digital camera and a mobile phone. Whenever we get reception, we try to share some thoughts, photos and stories. Primarily, this was done to keep our friends and families posted with our experiences; but we are delighted that our family has grown to include many others around the globe. Photos on Guri's blog are also getting much attention, including offers to buy and reprint ... to which she responds: "I'll charge 1000 smile cards per picture." :)

What is your background?

After my Computer Science/Philosophy degree from UC Berkeley, I used to optimize compilers at Sun Microsystems; that's the only formal job I've had in my life. I quit at 24, to attempt a life of service. That attempt is still in progress. Online, you can find far more info than you'd ever want. :) Guri has done everything from being a teacher, to doing human resource work at a healthcare company, to working as a volunteer recruitment manager at a mentoring agency. Liz Garone wrote an excellent profile about her previous trip to India.

What is your primary purpose?

To live in a space greater than our ego. We know it exists, and that it is within us, but we need to cultivate our awareness so we can first experience the change we wish to see in the world. This is our primary purpose. Our secondary purpose is to bring light to good people in remote corners of the world, in the hopes that it helps other people come alive. To that end, we share blog entries and iJourney profiles and invite others to do the same.

Can I join you on the walking pilgrimage?

Sure. However, we encourage people to create their own journeys and find their own inner calling. If it inspires you to join us for a short period of time, you are more than welcome; but know that you have to walk long distances, eat whatever little food is offered, and be smilingly ready to face absolutely *any* kind of circumstances. Dozens of folks have walked with us; some for a day, some for a week, some for couple weeks. Everyone benefits in proportion to what they bring to the table. And ultimately, the walk by itself won't change anything unless it is accompanied by a commitment to an inner revolution.

How can I contribute?

By merely asking this question, you are helping with your kind wishes. You can also spread the word about the profiles we write, or directly help the organizations that are recommended in the stories. You can also research innovative programs or inspiring people for us to visit, during our "south of Gujarat" walk. If you live in India, perhaps you could host us along the way. Of course, if you have other ideas for helping, we are generally only an email away.

What is next, after the pilgrimage?

We have no idea. Absolutely no idea. In fact, we don't even know when the pilgrimage will end. The way we figure, at least once in your life, you should do something with reckless abandon. :)

To find new ground, you have to break old barriers. In hopes of moving from the ego plan to the divine plan, my wife and I decided to drop practically everything that is known and comfortable to us. We hope that our pad-yatra, walking pilgrimage, in India gives us the courage to live like pilgrims for the remainder of our lives. Thank you for being a part of this journey.